When people think of summer in Ancona, they often picture the famous beaches of Portonovo, Mezzavalle, Sirolo, Sassi Neri, or the breathtaking Due Sorelle. With crystal-clear waters and postcard-worthy views, these spots are undeniably stunning. But let’s be honest, by the time you make your way down the scenic paths, you’re often met with crowds of sunbathers, leaving little space to truly soak in the tranquility of the Adriatic.
A Different Kind of Escape
If you’re looking for a more peaceful and authentic seaside experience, there’s a hidden treasure right in Ancona itself: the Grotte del Passetto. Nestled along the cliffs, these hand-carved caves date back to the late 1800s when fishermen created them as shelters for their boats and families. Today, while some still serve their original purpose, many have been transformed into charming retreats where locals gather to relax, cook, and enjoy the sea in a way that feels frozen in time.
Imagine cozy little spaces carved into the rock, each with its own personality, some with makeshift kitchens, others with rustic seating areas overlooking the water. There are no beach clubs, no rows of umbrellas, no overpriced seafood restaurants, just the simple beauty of the Adriatic, cherished by generations who grew up here. For me and Alberto, these caves hold a special place in our hearts, as they were the backdrop of our childhood summers, filled with adventure, family, and the unmistakable scent of the sea.
Finding Your Perfect “Grotta”
Each section of the Grotte del Passetto has its own unique vibe, making it easy to find one that suits your mood:
• Laghetti del Passetto – Just a short walk from the Laghetti del Passetto park, this area is a perfect mix of old and new. Some caves have been lovingly restored into welcoming hideaways where locals might even invite you in for a glass of wine or a plate of homemade pasta. It’s the perfect balance of relaxation and community without the overwhelming crowds.
• Seggiola del Papa – Located just below the Monumento ai Caduti, this area is the most popular among visitors. You’ll find deckchairs, sunshades, and a small seaside restaurant, making it a livelier spot. If you don’t feel like tackling the stairs, there’s even an elevator to take you down to the caves and back up again.
• The Authentic Grottaroli Experience – For a more adventurous experience, take the steep path to Grotta Azzurra. Here, you’ll meet fishermen who still live by the sea’s rhythms, surrounded by graffiti-covered walls that tell the story of this unique community. It’s a bit of a trek, but the journey itself is part of the magic.
A Place with Heart and History
What makes the Grotte del Passetto truly special isn’t just the setting—it’s the people. Each cave is a reflection of the families who have cared for them over generations, filled with personal touches and memories. It’s a glimpse into a way of life that values simplicity, tradition, and the beauty of the Adriatic.
So if you’re looking for something beyond the typical crowded beaches, step into this hidden world. The Grotte del Passetto offer not just a place to unwind, but a chance to experience a piece of Ancona’s soul—one tide, one story, and one summer memory at a time.
Alberto and Giulia with the Italology Team 💚🤍❤️
Italology: Italian language services, culinary experiences, and fencing coaching 
Leave a comment