Carissimi amici,
Welcome back to Italology! Today, we continue our journey through the enchanting Marche region, a land rich in history, breathtaking landscapes, and unparalleled flavors. After starting our adventure in Ancona, the capital of Marche, we’re now heading to a hidden gem nestled among rolling hills: Cupramontana.
This post is brought to you by Giorgio, Italology’s trusted travel advisor for all things Italy. Join Giorgio as he takes us to his beloved hometown, where the beauty of the countryside, the charm of village life, and the irresistible allure of Verdicchio wine await.
For our Italian-speaking friends, the original version of this article is available here. Enjoy exploring Cupramontana in the language of Giorgio!
From Ancona, in just a few minutes, you can reach Cupramontana, where I was born and where I married the love of my life, Adele, in the little Church of Romita, or more precisely Chiesa di S. Giacomo della Romita, a beautiful chapel nestled in the greenery of the Marche hills. Small and intimate, it radiates a unique sense of serenity, with its ancient walls that seem to guard stories from centuries past. Inside, among the plays of light filtering through the windows, you can admire an evocative sundial engraved with the phrase:
“Thus goes time, thus goes life, and the sun points to it every hour.”
A place that is not only for prayer but also for reflection, where time seems to slow down, and the beauty of simplicity reveals itself in every detail.
Cupramontana is a classic village spread across green, gentle hills, from which you can see the sea in the distance and the Apennines behind. With a population of just over 4,000, it is dedicated to agriculture. The village is surrounded by vineyards basking in the sun, whose grapes, “green-gold in color,” as my grandfather used to say, are characteristic of Verdicchio DOC production.
You can visit cellars carved into the tuff with oak barrels where the Verdicchio ferments. Especially in autumn, the air fills with the dry, exhilarating scent of wine. Do you understand now why the Romans called wine “divinum” in Latin?
Returning to Cupramontana, it is also where Luigi Bartolini was born and raised. He was a key figure behind the film Bicycle Thieves, a masterpiece of world cinema and a pinnacle of cinematic Neorealism, created in collaboration with Vittorio De Sica. If you’d like to experience this iconic film in its original Italian version with English subtitles, click here and immerse yourself in its timeless brilliance.
The village is particularly lively on Monday mornings, market day, when people from the countryside come to buy goods, tools, and to socialize, gossip, and chat. The air is dense with scents, sweat, loud voices, and whispers.
Since the village is small, everyone calls each other by their first name, but go figure, many are named Giuseppe or Maria, so it’s customary to add a nickname to the name. Thus, I am Giorgio dè Carlomà, others are Maria dè Sfrosciò, Peppe dè Moscò, Marì dè Zolfanello, Mario dè Carlì, Mario the baker, and so on.
Ahhh, to eat in Cupramontana, my heart beats for Trattoria Anita: homemade tagliatelle with ragù, grilled meat, fresh field vegetables, and much more, all paired with their Verdicchio Il Filello. Yes, it’s from their cellar. Donatello, Anita’s husband, used to say that his Filello had the same brilliant color as Anita’s eyes. What a testament to the power of love!
In the little church of Romita, where I got married, there is an ancient sundial with the inscription:
“So goes time, so goes life, and the sun points to it each hour.”
Cupramontana Highlights: What You Need to Know
Nestled in the rolling hills of the Marche region, Cupramontana is a charming village renowned for its wine, history, and vibrant traditions. Known as the “Capital of Verdicchio,” this picturesque destination offers visitors a perfect blend of cultural, historical, and gastronomical experiences.
Cultural and Historical Attractions
International Museum of Wine Labels (Museo Internazionale dell’Etichetta del Vino)
A unique museum dedicated to wine label artistry, showcasing over 100,000 labels from around the world. It celebrates the history and creativity behind Verdicchio and other wines, making it a must-see for wine enthusiasts.
Eremo dei Frati Bianchi (Hermitage of the White Friars)
An ancient hermitage set in a serene forest, with caves carved by monks during the Middle Ages. The peaceful atmosphere and rich history make it a perfect spot for reflection and exploration.
The Church of San Leonardo
A baroque-style church in the village center, adorned with frescoes and religious artwork. It’s an architectural gem and a place of quiet beauty.
Romita Monastery
Located just outside the village, this tranquil monastery features an ancient sundial with the inscription: “So goes time, so goes life, and the sun points to it each hour.” The views from this spot are breathtaking.
The Civic Tower (Torre Civica)
Offering panoramic views of the vineyards, hills, and the distant sea, this historic tower is a great spot for photos and soaking in the beauty of the region.
The Luigi Bartolini Legacy
Luigi Bartolini, an influential artist and writer, was born here. His work on the film Bicycle Thieves, a masterpiece of Neorealism, links Cupramontana to global cinematic history.
Food and Wine
Verdicchio Wine
Cupramontana is famous for its Verdicchio wine, a crisp, white DOC wine with a golden-green hue. Visit local wineries to tour their cellars and taste this regional treasure.
Trattoria da Anita
A local favorite for authentic Marche cuisine. Try their homemade tagliatelle with ragù, grilled meats, and fresh vegetables, paired with their signature Verdicchio “Il Filello.” You can find more details on TripAdvisor.
Sagra dell’Uva (Grape Festival)
Held annually in October, this is one of Italy’s oldest wine festivals. It features parades, traditional music, wine tastings, and grape-stomping contests—a true celebration of local culture.
Natural Beauty
Verdicchio Vineyards
The rolling vineyards surrounding Cupramontana are perfect for wine tours and walks. Their green and gold hues are especially striking in autumn.
Hiking Trails
Explore nature trails through the hills, olive groves, and vineyards for a peaceful escape into the countryside.
Practical Tips
Best Time to Visit
- Spring and Autumn: Ideal for exploring vineyards, attending festivals, and enjoying pleasant weather.
- October: Visit during the Sagra dell’Uva for a lively and immersive experience.
Getting Around
- By Car: The best way to explore the surrounding countryside and nearby attractions.
- Walking: The village center is compact and easy to explore on foot.
Nearby Destinations
- Jesi: A nearby town known for its medieval walls and Verdicchio wines.
- Frasassi Caves (Grotte di Frasassi): A spectacular cave system about 40 minutes away.
- Loreto: Visit the Basilica della Santa Casa, a major Catholic pilgrimage site.
For more information about Cupramontana, its attractions, and events, visit the official tourism website: Cupramontana Tourism. It’s a great resource to help you plan your visit to this enchanting village. Buon viaggio! 😊
Giorgio and the Italology Team 💚🤍❤️
Coming up next week, Italology’s Favorite Recipe: Adele’s Gnocchi alla Sorrentina
️Follow us on Instagram, Facebook, X (former Twitter) and LinkedIn!
Italology: Italian language services, culinary experiences, and fencing coaching 
Leave a comment